Tunisia is an amazing tourist destination and an accommodating place for expats to call home. Still, there are some things about Tunisia that rightfully give people pause when contemplating a visit to the country. From terrorism to stomach bugs, there are a number of real risks that you should be aware of and factor in before you book your trip.
Abi and I have lived here in Tunisia for years. We have learned the local dialect of Arabic, we’ve traveled to just about every area of the country, and we’ve made a lot of awesome Tunisian friends. We always strive to be “in the culture” as much as possible.
While we may be a little more adventurous than average, we are not foolhardy. We stay up to date on travel advisories from our home country, and we try to view Tunisia with a sober and realistic understanding of the risks that this country poses to us as Western foreigners that stand out from the crowd.
In this post, we want to give you our impressions of how safe Tunisia is for tourists. I (Andy) wrote the sections on terrorism, crime, and the police, and Abi wrote about illnesses and the dangers that women face. These are the things we would discuss with a friend who was considering whether or not to come to Tunisia and was concerned about safety.
*Disclaimer 1: Traveling to Tunisia is YOUR decision. We are not responsible if something bad happens to you, even if our blog inspires you to come here.
*Disclaimer 2: In this post we give our impression of the safety situation in Tunisia as of now. If some serious event happened like an attack, a pandemic, a violent protest, etc., the security situation could get a lot worse, very quickly, and without any advance notice.
Part 1: Terrorism
If you look up the travel advisories on the state websites of the US, the UK, Canada, and Australia, you’ll find that terrorism is the threat they discuss first and most extensively.
Since Tunisia’s revolution in 2011, the country has been allowed more civil liberties. With the increased freedom, terrorist groups have grown, and they have carried out several attacks since 2011.
The chances that you would fall victim to a terrorist attack are extremely small. However, the threat of terrorism should concern tourists because foreigners are often the targets of these attacks.
What Incidents Have Happened
The deadliest attacks in recent years have targeted foreigners. 2015 was a terrible year in Tunisia, with two large attacks. Here is a rundown of each one.
Bardo Museum Attack. March 18, 2015. Three gunmen stormed the Bardo Museum in Tunis and killed 19 tourists and 1 Tunisian police officer. Tourists from several different countries were killed. Fifty other people were injured. This was the second most deadly terrorist attack in Tunisia’s history. The Islamic State claimed responsibility. Source: The Guardian.
Sousse Beach Attack. June 26, 2015. A 22-year-old gunman killed 38 people at a beach and tourist complex near Sousse. Thirty of those killed were British tourists. Thirty-eight others were wounded. This was the deadliest attack in Tunisia’s history. The Islamic State claimed responsibility. A well-armed Tunisian security team was just around the corner, but they waited 30 minutes for reinforcements instead of stopping the attacker. The Tunisian government later charged several police officers with criminal negligence. Source: BBC.
There have been several other attacks in recent years whose victims have been Tunisian security forces. Here is a rundown of those attacks with the most casualties.
Tunis Bombings. June 28, 2019. Two suicide bombers carried out attacks in two different locations in Tunis. One detonated himself near the French Embassy, killing 1 police officer and injuring 4 other people. The second attacker detonated himself at a National Guard base, killing 1 and injuring 4. Source: New York Times.
Security Guard Bus Bombing. November 24, 2015. The attacker detonated a bomb inside a bus that carried members of the Tunisian Presidential Security Guard to and from their posts. It happened in the middle of downtown Tunis, on the Avenue Mohammed V. Source: Washington Post.
Bombing Outside the US Embassy. March 6, 2020. Two suicide bombers blew themselves up in front of the US Embassy in Tunis. One police officer was killed. Six others were injured, including one female civilian. Source: Al Jazeera.
Tunisian Attitudes Toward Extremism
Tunisians are outspoken in their opposition to terrorism and terrorist groups. You can see this in the public reactions to the terrorist attacks in 2015, polls, and by anecdotal evidence.
After the terrorist attack at the Bardo Museum in 2015, the government held a ceremony at the museum to honor the 38 people killed. The Tunisian president, the French president, and several other foreign dignitaries were present.
After the ceremony at the museum, an estimated 10,000 Tunisians marched on the streets of Tunis to protest the attacks and show solidarity with the victims. Source: BBC.
Our personal impression after living here for years and making a lot of friends is that the great majority of Tunisians are strongly opposed to terrorism and religious extremism.
Abi was living in Sfax in 2015 when the worst attacks happened. She says that some taxi drivers in Sfax refused to pick up anyone who looked like a religious extremist. If they saw a man with a long beard, or a woman whose face was fully covered, they would not stop for them.
Unsafe Areas
There are some places in the country that you should not go because terrorist cells are known to exist there. These places are on the “do not go” lists on the government websites of the US, Canada, the UK, and Australia.
Border with Libya. If you’re visiting Star Wars sites, take notice. Travel advisories say not to go within 30km of the Libyan border. As a tourist you probably won’t have a reason to go beyond Tataouine or Medinine. Both of these towns are neat for Star Wars fans and are 120 km from the border. Medinine is mentioned on the US State Department’s website as a place that is more dangerous because of its proximity to Libya. The UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office also advises against going to the coastal town of Zarzis.
Western Mountains. Terrorist groups are known to operate in the mountainous regions of western Tunisia. It’s advised not to go to Chaambi Mountain National Park or within 10 km of Mount Mghila. Both of these places are around the town of Kasserine. The UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises against all but essential travel to the whole Kasserine Governate.
Southern Desert. You CAN go to the Sahara Desert with a tour guide in several places, such as Douz and Tozeur. However, you cannot go into the desert south of the town of Remada. It is a military zone. Looking at a map of Tunisia, that’s the long, thin piece that makes up the bottom of the country.
Border with Algeria. You should avoid the area around the towns of Jendouba and Kasserine. The UK’s FCO advises against going within 30 km of the Algerian border in these governates. That includes the archaeological site of Chemtou. The towns of Kasserine and Jendouba are located 1.5 to 2.5 hours south of Tabarka.
Sidi Bou Zid. This is a town in central Tunisia, 2 hours west of Sfax. In 2011, a fruit vendor lit himself on fire in protest against the government, and that was what set in motion that “Arab Spring” movement in Tunisia and several Arab countries. Terrorist groups are known to operate around Sidi Bou Zid today.
One of the unsettling things that the 2015 terror attacks illustrates is that no place is completely safe. The Bardo Museum and the Hotel Imperial Marhaba near Sousse were dangerous precisely because they were tourist locations that were considered safe. Crowded tourist areas, no matter where they are, can be at a higher risk of terrorist attacks.
The Tunisian Government’s Response to Terrorism
The terrorist attacks of 2015 were terrible for Tunisia’s tourism industry. There were 1.8 million LESS tourist arrivals in 2015 than in 2014, and that is after their tourist arrivals had been rising by hundreds of thousands of visitors every year.
As a result of the terrorist attacks, the Tunisian government declared a state of emergency in November of 2015. The government has continued to renew the state of emergency every few months, and it is still in effect today.
The state of emergency gives special powers to the Ministry of the Interior that helps it fight terrorism. Some of these emergency powers have been criticized by human rights groups, because they consist of things like the ability to ban meetings, inspect private property, and monitor communications, without prior permission from the Tunisian judiciary. Source: Middle East Monitor.
Since 2015, Tunisia has taken greater measures to increase its security. As a part of that effort, the UK sent a small team of training experts to work with the Tunisian military to built their counter-terrorism capabilities.
Word has it that the security in the tourist areas and beach resorts are better now than they were in 2015. Be aware, though, that in remote areas, including tourist sites in the south, police may be slower to respond to threats.
Part 2: Crime
Thankfully, the risk of violent crime in Tunisia is low. Tunisian citizens are not allowed to own firearms except for hunting. Numbers of armed robberies, homicides and assaults are low.
I was told when I first came to Tunisia that you are much more likely to be a victim of petty crime than terrorism. Terrorism is obviously a major concern because it’s a life and death situation, but having your valuables stolen can also put a real damper on your trip!
Pickpocketing
There are pickpockets in every city in the world, and there is certainly no shortage of them in Tunisia! If you go to a Tunisian city, you will likely be in very crowded areas. If you’re standing in a restaurant, meandering through the medina, walking on the sidewalk, or riding the metro, you will be in very close contact with people. It’s normal to have people brush up against you on all sides, which makes it harder to know if someone is trying to reach into your pocket or bag.
I hate to admit it, but I had my iPhone stolen from my front pocket while riding the metro in Tunis in 2017. I usually kept my hand on my phone in my pocket at all times. At one point the metro got so crowded that I had both hands up on the overhead rail just to make room for people. Less than a minute later, I reached down for my phone and it was gone. I know several people—both foreigners and Tunisians—that have been pickpocketed like this. Be careful!
Robberies and Scams
Tourists who stand out by their appearance and look unfamiliar with their surroundings are targeted for scams and purse snatches. There have been incidents where guys on mopeds will snatch a purse and drive off. Muggings also happen at ATMs. Since you will probably need to use an ATM and pay for everything with cash, be careful. Car break-ins are also common, especially when valuables are visible from the outside of the car.
Part 3: Illness and Injury
(Abi wrote this section.) I’ve travelled to many different countries and unfortunately I’ve come to know traveler’s diarrhea well. I love being adventurous with eating street food. I’ve learned tricks like taking acidophilus—a type of “good” bacteria that is often taken when you are on antibiotics. It just helps my stomach handle novel foods a little better. Source: CDC.
If you have a medical emergency and you need an ambulance in Tunisia, dial 190. This is the equivalent of dialing 911 in the US. The number 190 connects you to SAMU (Les Services d’aide Medicale Urgente), which is Tunisia’s Ministry of Urgent Medical Services. If you have an emergency and need the police, dial 197.
Illnesses from Food
The food in Tunisia is amazing. The country is right on the Mediterranean, so you get great seafood and they have good, temperate weather for growing all sorts of amazing fruits and vegetables. I was given the advice when traveling that it is okay to eat anything that I can peel or cook before eating. For info on the tap water, see our other post on that subject.
Beware of Fresh Veggies! Tunisian Salad is made of fresh diced cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions. It is covered in olive oil and salt, and topped with a clump of canned tuna. It is delicious, but you are playing Russian Roulette with traveler’s diarrhea if you eat in at a restaurant. Many places do not wash their vegetables very well. You’ll most likely be fine, but eating fresh salad is the most likely way to spend several painful hours in your hotel’s restroom.
Thankfully, there are some good cooked salad options to try instead of fresh salads. One option is grilled salad (Salata Mechouia). They grill tomatoes, onions, and green peppers then chop them up and mix in olive oil and salt. Another cooked salad is called Ommek Houria and is cooked carrots pureed with garlic and other delicious spices. Both of these are eaten with bread (not utensils), and they are delicious!
Beware of Raw Eggs! There are a few staple Tunisian dishes that are served with undercooked eggs. Ojja is one of my favorite dishes. There is a little restaurant downtown in Tunis that was Andy and my’s first stop returning to the country. It is called Chou Chou. It is hard to get a seat, but their Ojja is THE BEST! Ojja is a soup/stew/sauce that is eaten with bread. It is piping hot when it is served and the last thing they put in the sauce is a raw egg. The remaining heat from the dish partially cooks the egg. Whenever I order this dish, I request the egg to be fully cooked and they happily comply.
You will also find raw eggs in Kefteji. This can be served as a sandwich or plate eaten with bread. This has tomatoes, onions, peppers and eggs grilled and chopped up together. It’s delicious and super cheap.
In the winter, a popular dish is Leblebi. When you order Leblebi they will hand you a bowl and some baguette bread. You have to tear up your bread in little pieces then hand them the bowl with the bread chunks inside. They will pour chickpea soup over it and place in other things like tuna, parsley, onions, and harissa (spicy pepper paste). The finishing touch is a raw egg cracked on top that cooks in the hot soup mixture. It’s great to try to but beware of the fresh veggies and undercooked egg.
Hospitals and Clinics
As a foreigner, if you have a problem, you will want to go to the private hospitals (cliniques). I’ve gone several times to the Urgent Care in Clinique Jasmine in Tunis. Each time, I saw a doctor very quickly, got my prescription, and went home, all within a few hours. I’ve been very pleased by the quality of care and the low cost.
Most doctors visits are around 40 TND ($14) for the visit. I once went to a private Urgent Care at night with a high fever. I was given an IV with paracetamol, and the visit ended up costing 80 TND ($28) without insurance. By comparison, once in the US I went to the ER with a sewing needle in my finger. I got an x-ray, a nerve blocker, and then the doctor took the needle out and sent me home. This cost me $700 with insurance.
The language barrier may be an issue when visiting doctors or pharmacies in the country. Bring along a translator if you can, or ask around for an English speaker. Translators are available in many cases, but most doctors are fluent in Arabic and French only.
The US Embassy has a list of local resources, English-speaking doctors, and emergency numbers that is very helpful to have on hand in case anything happens during your stay.
Part 4: Dangers for Women
I (Abi) grew up with three older brothers. I played a lot of sports and have always had pride in my ability to “keep up with the boys.” I have treasured my independence.
However, no matter where you live, there will always be different dangers for women than men. This is especially true in the Arab world. Tunisia has made many strides in empowering women and protecting women through their laws.
As a woman visiting or living in Tunisia, you must be aware of the problem rather than ignore it. The country and majority population are fighting against these problems, but they do exist.
Stats on Violence Against Women
In 2010, there was a report put out by the UN after conducting a survey of women between the ages of 18-64. This study claims that 47.6% of women said they reported at least one type of violence against them. 31.7% stated there had been some sort of physical violence, 28.9% said some sort of phycological violence, 15.7% reported some sort of sexual violence. Source: UN.
The 2014 constitution clearly addresses the problem of violence against women and has laws attempting to protect women. In 2017, the parliament wrote new laws that increased the punishment for sexual harassments. In a New York Times article states that “a Tunisian group that works with the United Nations, found that 70 percent to 90 percent of women had been victims of sexual harassment, mostly on public transportation, from 2011 to 2015. Source: New York Times.
My Experience
The government does try to enforce laws that protect women from sexual harassments, but it still exists. I lived in Tunisia for 4 years unmarried. I travelled many places in the country. The people here in general are kind and hospitable. I have made many friends and feel like many Tunisian families have adopted me as their own.
However, when I’ve walked around the streets alone in a place people did not know me, I was often cat-called or propositioned. It made me feel less like a human and more like an animal or item. I will share two of my worst experiences in my four-and-a-half years living here.
One time I was walking in my neighborhood from my house to a friend’s house one block away. As I was walking along the street with no one around a couple guys on a moped drove up quickly behind me and smacked me on the backside. I was horrified and embarrassed. I have heard many times of women walking in the crowded city streets being touched inappropriately and this caused me to often place my purse behind me, preferring to be robbed than harassed.
On another occasion, my American friend had come to visit me and we were leaving an ice cream store in the middle of the afternoon to catch a taxi, a group of guys started coming up to us crudely yelling, “Sex, Sex” as we hurried into our taxi. One of the guys even grabbed the taxi door as we slid in and tried to ignore their words. I was angry and embarrassed again as I had been proud to show my best friend this wonderful culture and this would become one of her memories from her short stay.
Since I have moved back to Tunisia married, I rarely walk around on my own. I have had no incidents of harassment since returning to the country married.
If you are a single woman visiting Tunisia, I would encourage you to visit places with groups. There are many tours to join and ways to see the more rural areas that would be much safer and give you more ease than traveling alone. You can also find local groups that have organized day outings into less known areas of Tunisia while getting to know people from the culture and on Facebook. The people in Tunisia are great in general, but until the few unfortunate scum are fearful enough to respect the laws, travel in groups and preferably with a local and you’ll leave loving the culture too!
Part 5: Dealing with the Police
There is a decent chance you will need to interact with a police officer on your visit to Tunisia. Here are a few things to know ahead of time:
Tunisia’s laws apply to you. You are not exempt from following the laws of Tunisia, even if you’re not aware of what the laws are. If you’re caught breaking a law, you could be imprisoned or deported. Your foreign passport won’t help you get out of trouble.
If you get into trouble, or if you’re arrested, whether you did anything wrong or not, the first thing you should do is ask for your embassy to be contacted.
Encounters with police are normal. It is normal to see checkpoints on the roads where police or National Guardsmen stop cars at random. If you travel to small towns or go on a desert trip with a guide, you may also be required to check in at the local police station so they can know what foreigners are under their care.
Have your passport with you. The US State Department website says that you can be taken in for questioning if you don’t have your passport on you.
Police are usually friendly. Every encounter we have had with the police has been positive. A few times I’ve been stopped at random at a checkpoint and the police weren’t friendly, but I never felt intimidated. I have heard about people being asked indirectly for a bribe. If a police officer ever asked me for a bribe, my Arabic wasn’t strong enough for me to realize it! Keep in mind that your experience with the police may be much different if you break a law.
The police don’t speak English. We have never encountered a police officer in Tunisia that speaks English. If you are stopped by the police for some reason, you will want to have someone you can contact in Tunisia who can translate for you.
Conclusion
There are too many important points in this post to try and summarize here, so we’ll just reiterate that this is OUR personal take on how safe Tunisia is for tourists. Millions of people come here every year with no incident. Still, bad stuff does happen, and we can in no way guarantee your safety. It’s ultimately up to you decide what risk you are willing to tolerate. If you do decide to visit Tunisia, we wish you a wonderful, incident-free trip!
