Religion – Tunisian Experience

Religion is one of the most important aspects of life in Tunisia. The vast majority of Tunisians, about 98%, identify as Muslim. Still, the country hosts millions of visitors per year, and many of these are from non-Muslim countries. The Zaytouna Mosque in the medina of Tunis, viewed from a rooftop cafe nearby You may be wondering, what is it like to visit Tunisia as a non-Muslim? Well, Abi and I are Christians, and we have lived in Tunisia for years now and we have had a great experience. We are very thankful for the many Tunisian friends we’ve made and for the kindness they show us even when we follow different religions. Before we start, we should note that in this post we’re not trying to give a comprehensive overview of religion in Tunisia. There is a LOT to say about Islam in Tunisia, and we know that our Tunisian friends would be better suited to give you the nuanced, “insider’s” scoop. This is our perspective as visitors. Below are the things we discuss with our friends who are visiting Tunisia for the first time. 1. Islam is the Majority Religion About 98% of Tunisians identify as Muslim. Mosques dot the landscape, and you are likely to hear the call to prayer go off five times a day. Many Tunisian women wear head coverings. The majority of Tunisians are Sunni Muslims, but there are also a large number that identify as non-denominational. The first Muslim city in Tunisia was built in 670 AD, only a few decades after Islam was founded. The major Islamic holidays are also national holidays in Tunisia, in the same way that Christmas is a national holiday in America. The pace of life changes drastically during the month-long holiday of Ramadan. During Ramadan, Muslims fast from food and water from sunrise to sunset, and the day centers around the breaking of fast at sunset. Many shops open late and close early to accommodate. As a guest in Tunisia, you should be aware that there are some cultural practices that are normal in Europe and America but are not normal in Muslim countries. Tunisians tend to dress more modestly, even at the beach. (See Abi’s post on swimwear.) While pork and alcohol are available, they are usually not consumed in public. Most Tunisians are open to talking about religion, but, as a guest in their country, you have a responsibility to keep things civil. Insults toward the prophet Mohammed especially would not be well received. 2. Mosque and State are Intertwined The 2014 Tunisian Constitution says that “Tunisia is a free, independent, sovereign state; its religion is Islam, its language Arabic, and its system is republican.” In many ways, mosque and state are intertwined. The government has complete power over mosques in Tunisia. According to the constitution, the state is the “guardian of religion.” The highest religious authority in the country is called the Grand Mufti, and this office is appointed by the government. The government owns the mosque buildings, pays the salaries of the imams, and is responsible for mosque maintenance. While the state influences the practice of Islam in Tunisia, this also goes the other way around, as Islam influences the state. It is required that the president of Tunisia be Muslim. And, according to surveys, most Tunisians want Islam to influence the laws. 63% of Tunisians say that the country’s laws should follow the values and principles of Islam, and 23% say that the laws should strictly follow the Quran. According to another poll, about half of Tunisians say that they would prefer Shariah law to be the law of the land. 3. There Are Christians, But They Are Mostly Foreigners The second largest religion in Tunisia is Christianity--although it still makes up only a fraction of 1% of the population. Chrisitianity has a long history in Tunisia, going back to the ancient church in Carthage during the time that Tunisia was a part of the Roman empire. Then, when France became involved in Tunisia, the Roman Catholic Church also made its mark on the country. One of the most impressive buildings on the main avenue in downtown Tunis is the Cathedral of Saint Vincent de Paul. Today, there are other Christian denominations represented as well. There is a very cool Greek Orthodox church in downtown Tunis that foreigners are allowed to tour. Abi and I were on a field trip with our language tutors one time, and they were allowed inside to see the sanctuary only because we were with them. According to a report from the US State Department, some people estimate that there are 30,000 Christians residing in the country. From our vantage point, this number seems extremely high. The State Department report says that 7,000 of the 30,000 Christians in Tunisia are citizens, which means there are 23,000 foreign Christians. It also says 80% of these are Roman Catholic, which would be about 18,400. But, Catholic officials in Tunisia report only about 5,000 members in the country. Where are the other 13,400? Maybe there are thousands of Catholics in the country that don’t attend church, but that seems very high. 4. Lots of Jewish history But a Small Jewish Population There have been Jewish communities living in Tunisia for over 2,000 years, which means their history in the country pre-dates Christianity and Islam. In the middle of the 1900’s, there were over 100,000 Jews in Tunisia. In the 1960’s, some conflicts led to a mass migration of Jews to France and Israel, and now there are only about 1,400 remaining in Tunisia. By happenstance, Abi and I have run into a few Jewish tourists that have filled us in on their Tunisian-Jewish heritage. One man who lives in France brought his teenage son to see where his grandparents grew up. It was neat to see the man’s eyes light up when he saw the sign on the road for La Marsa, and he said, “Ah! That’s where my grandmother lived!” Before then, he had not been allowed to enter the country because Tunisia didn’t recognize Israel as a country. There are small Jewish communities around Tunis and also on the island of Djerba. Djerba has the oldest Synagogue in Africa, the El Ghriba Synagogue. This synagogue hosts a celebration called the Lag B’Omer Pilgrimage, which begins a month after Passover. 5. Tunisians Emphasize Tolerance Since I have never been inside a mosque in Tunisia, I can’t vouch for what the teaching is like. From my outsider’s perspective, though, there is one religious doctrine that Tunisians hold to very strongly: “You have your religion, and I have my religion.” In religious matters, Tunisians have a “live and let live” attitude. They do not want to rock the boat. They are amicable and peaceful to the point of erasing the distinctions between religions. For example, when Abi and I use common Arabic expressions like In sha Allah (if God wills), sometimes a Tunisian will ask, “Wait, are you Muslim?” We say, “No, we are Christians.” Then they reply, “It’s ok. They are the same.” Not all Tunisians believe this, of course. But several Tunisians we have talked to really do not see any meaningful difference between Islam and Christianity or Judaism. Tolerance toward other religions is engrained in Tunisian culture, but it is also a matter of public policy. See for yourself this section from Article 6 of the Tunisian Constitution: “The state undertakes to disseminate the values of moderation and tolerance and the protection of the sacred, and the prohibition of all violations thereof.” For an example of the government putting these values into practice, state officials often visit and participate in an annual Jewish pilgrimage to the El Ghriba Synagogue in Djerba. In the past, the highest ranking Muslim authority in the country--the Grand Mufti--as well as the President, have visited the synagogue during the Lag B’Omer Pilgrimage to demonstrate their religious tolerance. 6. Israel / Palestine Is a Sensitive Topic The conflict between Israel and Palestine is a hot topic no matter where you are in the world, but especially in the Arab world. If you are a first-time visitor to an Arab country, here is a rule of thumb: DON’T TALK ABOUT ISRAEL. I guess I’m technically breaking that rule here, but I’m doing it to save you some trouble on your visit. Many Tunisians have a sense of solidarity with the Palestinian people because they are fellow Muslims. Pro-Palestinian protestors often hold demonstrations in downtown Tunis. When you are in Tunisia, there is almost certainly nothing good that will come from you bringing up the topic of Israel-Palestine or sharing your opinion. Just recently I was getting a haircut at my favorite barber in Tunis. At first it was just me and the barber in there chatting it up with my broken Arabic. Then, another older man came in, and when he found out I was American, he asked me several pointed questions about Israel, Palestine, and Trump. I said as little as possible and then listened while he shared his opinion. I recommend this approach. 7. How Religious Restrictions Apply to Foreigners Some Muslim countries enforce religious restrictions that may not be on your radar if you’re coming from Europe or the US. For example, eating in the daytime during Ramadan, drinking alcohol, consuming pork, or wearing bikinis. In Tunisia, some of these things are OK for foreigners to partake in, and some are not. Ramadan is a month-long holiday where Muslims fast from food and water from sunrise to sunset. While there are a fair number of Tunisians that do not fast, it is NOT normal to see people eating or drinking in public. Tunisians do not expect you as a non-Muslim to fast. But, it would be disrespectful to eat and drink in front of them. An exception to this rule would be in your resort hotel where you are served lunch. Muslims differ in their opinion on whether or not drinking alcohol is OK. Some prohibit it, some discourage it, and some just say you shouldn’t be intoxicated. Tunisians don’t drink as much alcohol as Western countries, but it is still widely available. You can buy it in grocery stores and order it in several restaurants and bars. However, it is not normal to see people drinking in public places where alcohol is not served. As far as I know, it would not be ok to take drinks with you to the beach or to a park. Pork is prohibited in Islam more clearly than alcohol is. (See our post on this topic.) Not only is it against the rules, but most Muslims are disgusted by it. Pork is available in some hotels, grocery stores, and specialty butchers. But, you should not eat it around Tunisians. Women in Tunisia dress more modestly than in Western countries. In Tunis, about half (?) of the Tunisian women wear head coverings. The farther you go from the capital, the more women cover their heads. Foreign women are not expected to cover. But, if you plan on visiting a mosque, you will need to bring a head covering. For the complete scoop on how to dress at the beach, see Abi’s post on wearing bikinis. When it comes to religious restrictions in Tunisia, here is our Number 1 rule: Remember that you are a guest, and it is your responsibility to show respect to your generous Tunisian hosts. 8. Ancient Christian History is Visible Today As we mentioned above, Tunisia was home to some of the earliest Christian churches. An influential Christian community existed here when North Africa was part of the Roman Empire. This community dwindled and had pretty much disappeared when North Africa became part of the Muslim world. Many artifacts from Tunisia’s ancient Christian past are still visible today. By far the coolest Christian site in Tunisia is the ruins of the church at Carthage. It is a very unassuming site with no signs, gates, or entry fees. You really have to know what you’re looking for to find it. It is located right next to the big Malik ibn Anas Mosque in Carthage. You can park on the side of the road and walk among the big stone pillars, and you can even take a flight of stairs down into a huge baptismal. From what we have heard, the Carthage Church was a central and influential meeting point for major Christian leaders and thinkers in the 3’rd and 4’th centuries. Saint Augustine of Hippo visited here and delivered sermons. The church also hosted a number of ecumenical councils. One important meeting was the Council of Carthage in 397 AD. At this council, they made a list of the canonical books of the Bible. It was the first occasion where all of the books of today’s New Testament were compiled in one list. 9. There Are Other Cool Religious Landmarks to See We’ve already mentioned the El-Ghriba Synagogue in Djerba, the Cathedral of Saint Vincent de Paul and the Greek Orthodox church in Tunis, and the ruins of the Carthage Church. If you’re looking to learn and see some Islamic sites, the best place to start is the city of Kairouan. Because Kairouan is the first Muslim city built in North Africa, the whole city is a historical and religious attraction. In fact, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s now the fifth largest city in Tunisia. It’s a 2-hour drive from Tunis, and only 1 hour from Sousse. The largest religious monument in the city is the Great Mosque, also called the Mosque of Uqba. Uqba is the name of the Islamic general that founded the city. If you’re interested in architectural history, this is the place to go. Some features of the mosque, like the horseshoe shaped door, were first used here. In the old city in Kairouan there is a mausoleum that holds the remains of one of the prophet Mohamed’s friends and companions, Abou Zamaa al-Balawi. To me it was surprising to learn that someone who knew Mohammed came to Tunisia, helped establish the city, and then died in battle against the native Berbers. It shows you just how much Tunisia was a part of early Islam. There are some historical mosques in Tunisia that are closed or partially restricted to non-Muslims. The Zaytouna Mosque, pictured at the top of this post, is in the middle of the medina in Tunis. Non-Muslim tourists are usually not allowed, but supposedly if you go at certain times you can get in. Abi tried to go in once and they told her she would be allowed in if she came back at a certain time. Conclusion Hopefully these tips give you a head start on navigating the religious landscape in Tunisia. Please keep in mind our Number 1 rule mentioned above: Remember that you are a guest, and take it on yourself to show respect to your hosts. Tunisians are welcoming people and they do a great job accommodating different faiths that visit their country. Enjoy!