Clothing – Tunisian Experience

There are a few things about Tunisia that make it a little tricky to pick the perfect wardrobe. Tunisia is a Muslim country, and the mixture of modern and traditional cultures is evident in the way Tunisians dress. On top of that, Tunisia is a Mediterranean paradise with rolling countryside, forests, and the scorching Sahara Desert, all within a half-day’s drive. So… what are you supposed to wear? The weather, the activities you plan to do, as well as cultural considerations will dictate what clothes you personally need to pack on your trip. But in this post, we thought we’d share some of the things we’ve learned about Tunisian culture that may help. Abi and I have lived in Tunisia for years. We’ve traveled all over the country in all weather conditions, and we have enjoyed all kinds of cultural settings with a range of dress protocols. Throughout this article, Abi writes the sections on women’s dress, and I (Andy) write about men. Hopefully, the tips and hints below will help you get going in the right direction as you prepare for your trip! How Tunisian People Dress While traveling in Tunisia, you will see a variety of clothing styles based on the region of the country that you’re in. The most noticeable change you’ll see will be from urban to rural areas. There are basically two cultures that are struggling to influence fashion. First, Tunisia has strong ties to Europe and especially French culture. They were a French protectorate until the 1950’s, and afterwards they still kept close ties with France. The second cultural force is Tunisia’s Arab heritage. The Abayas and Hijabs that women wear are signs of conservative Islam. Sprinkled into this mix is also some influences of the old tribal culture, which can still be seen in some styles of dress. It is easy to guess that the more Urban areas are going to lean towards more European fashion while the rural areas are where you will find more modest and conservative attire. Urban Women In the capital, you will probably notice more women not wearing a head scarf than women that do. This might still be a residual effect of a previous ban on headscarves in 1981 for women who worked in any public office. From my observations, the women who are wearing headscarves are not normally wearing an Abaya (the traditional Muslim women’s floor length dress). They will normally be wearing a longer tunic style shirt along with recent fashion of skinny jeans and stylish, dressy shoes. Women who are not wearing headscarves will generally follow this more modest attire as compared to their European neighbors. You will rarely find local women wearing shorts, short skirts, or showing their legs in any way. Rural Dress The change in attire is drastic when you drive a few miles and reach the limits of the city. In a smaller town, the wardrobe is almost flipped from the city. The slightly larger majority of women will have on a headscarf. Many women will be wearing a colorful Abaya. There are still women wearing the tunic-style shirts and stylish shoes and accessories- especially the younger generation. You most likely won’t see any women showing their legs at all, but you will see a few women wearing all-black Abiyas and occasionally a Niqab (face covering). Another phenomenon you will notice in the rural areas is women with traditional Berber (tribal) influences in their clothes. Among older women, you may find them wearing the white scarf dress with bright red and yellow scarfs. In the designs of women’s clothing, there are the Berber symbols and gold embroidered Berber designs. In the desert I bought a colorful, camel-haired coat called a Kashabia, which I love. This Berber style is probably my favorite fashion influence. Urban Men You rarely if ever see men wearing traditional Tunisian clothing in the city. From my vantage point, Tunisian men in the city dress in a way that’s similar to men in Europe, but slightly more “dressed up” than in America. That is, they tend to wear shorts and athletic clothing a little less than American men. Men in their twenties, thirties and even forties tend to dress in a similar style. As anywhere, the younger they are, the messier or more casual they tend to dress. Here’s a rundown on what you can typically see a young man wearing in Tunis or other cities. I share this so that you can know the “dress code” and blend in if you want to. Pants. Slim and skinny jeans are a staple year-round for all younger men, and even some middle-aged men. Belts are optional. Younger men tend to wear jeans with rips, fading, and bleach marks. In the summer, guys wear shorts around town. In recent years it has been a fad for young guys in nicer neighborhoods to wear very short shorts (mid-thigh) in bright colors. These look more like swim trunks or boxer shorts. I never see young Tunisians wearing baggy pants or cargo pants. Shirts. When it’s warm, men wear t-shirts and collared “polo” shirts. The t-shirts often have a lot of print or embroidery on the front. T-shirts don’t usually have bright neon colors. They do wear soccer jerseys a lot, though. Close-fitting polo shirts may be the most common top that men wear. They also wear a lot of button up shirts, both long-sleeve and short-sleeve. In cooler weather, sweaters in earth tones are the go-to. Jackets. Men wear parkas if it gets really cold, but usually they wear jackets at waist length. The most common jackets are down or “puffy” jackets or vests, black or brown leather jackets, and bomber style jackets. If a guy is doing something active, he’s likely to wear a track jacket or hooded sweatshirt. Guys in their 20’s often wear track suits. Shoes. Young Tunisians wear sneakers a lot, which helps with all the walking you have to do in the city. If they are going to dress up more than sneakers, they are likely to wear leather or suede loafers. Suede loafers are a common way to dress up dark jeans and polo shirt. Hats. Young men often wear ball caps. You also see fedoras in all colors. Older men. Men who are middle-aged or older tend not to wear slim fitting jeans. Instead they wear slacks or wool trousers. Older men don’t go with the slim fitting pants like younger men. Professionals. White collar workers usually wear very slim fitting suits. Suits are usually darker colors, but you often see light blue. Thin neckties are popular. Professionals usually wear leather loafers. I don’t normally see young men wearing bulky dress shoes. Summer Attire Summers in Tunisia get pretty hot, but the highest temperatures actually only last for 3 months, from mid-June to mid-September. If you come to Tunisia during this time, prepare for temperatures above 30° Celsius (87° Fahrenheit). The hottest day of the year in the capital city is August 4, with an average high of 34° Celsius (94° Fahrenheit). Women If you are walking around in tourist areas along the beach or in a tour group, you can likely wear what you want without problems. I want to note that the more skin you show, the more you will stand out and the more likely that you will receive unwanted attention. Our awesome language tutors and friends However, if you are going to go outside of the “main drag”, then showing your legs, stomach, or shoulders would not be considerate. When you go to the beach, I recommend having a coverup to wear when walking around. Don’t go into even the small stores or street-food restaurants wearing only your bathing suit. If you want an in-depth discussion about swimwear on the beach, see our other post: "Can I Wear A Bikini in Tunisia?" Men If you’re a tourist and you’re not worried about sticking out from the crowd, it is fine to wear just about whatever you want during the summer to stay cool and comfortable. I recommend choosing clothes that will help you manage sweat in the summer. If you’re touring around a city in Tunisia, there are many instances where you will be in close contact with other people. Most public buildings or indoor spaces do not have air conditioning. Public transportation, restaurants, cafes, and city streets can be very crowded to the point where you’re rubbing up against other people. If it’s 34°C outside, it’s going to be 40°C in the crowded metro! I don’t sweat that badly, but there have been times where I got off the metro and my cotton, button-up shirt was completely stuck to my back. Pretty gross. Unlike some Muslim countries, it is acceptable for men to wear shorts when it gets hot. I wear shorts all the time in Tunis and I usually don’t feel out of place if I’m just running errands or on the street. I don’t see too many men wearing cut-off t-shirts or tank tops. Even when it’s hot, though, it’s normal to see a lot of guys wearing jeans. When I took language classes one summer in Tunis, I wore thin cotton pants every day because all of the guys in the language center were wearing pants. It may be a rule not to wear shorts to work. Winter Attire The winter season in Tunisia is long and mild. The coldest season lasts from late November through mid-March. The temperature during this period is between 7° and 11° Celsius (46° and 52° Fahrenheit). With winter being moderate in Tunisia, you may be surprised at winter fashion if you are visiting from a much colder environment. You will probably be shocked to see everyone in parkas, scarves, hats, and gloves. Winter attire runs more by dates than by weather. I (Abi) once had a tutor tell me that growing up, they depended on the police to dictate the change in attire. When the police changed from short to long sleeves, then they knew that it was time for them to change. An expat friend shared with me that she was told by a local that when the rain starts is the signal for wearing long sleeves and went until June 1st. I’ve had many expat friends share stories of being scolded by neighbors or friends for allowing their children to dress in short sleeves or wear sandals before the summer months began, even though it was more than 80° F outside. If you are visiting between October and June, you may receive more glances than normal if you decide to wear sandals or short sleeves around town. Dressing Up If you are lucky enough to attend a formal event, such as a wedding, engagement party, or circumcision celebration, then you’ll want to make sure to wear formal attire. These outfits can even be rented from many stores in Tunisia. Women love to dress up with beautiful hairdos and makeup. You can visit a salon to have them do both for you. I’ve heard from friends that this is a popular location for locals to meet their future spouses and so they “dress to impress.” Women will wear beautiful, ornate gowns, and men will either be wearing a tux or dressy jeans with a fashion tee. Exercise Attire Exercise attire for men is about the same in Tunisia as it is in Western countries. I’ve joined a local running club several times and they wear running shorts and cut-off t-shirts. For women, exercise attire normally involves leggings and tee-shirts. I participated in many female sporting events. Women would often wear longer shorts, just above the knee, when participating in practice or in a match. I noticed that they still wore pants to and from the building and would change in a locker room when they arrived. As a female tourist exercising in public, you will probably want to wear capri or full-length leggings. If you are participating in a race, match, or are in a tourist area, you can comfortably wear shorts as long as they have a longer inseam. Footwear Men Unless you’re hanging out around a beach resort all day, you’ll probably be doing a LOT of walking. Tunisians often wear athletic shoes around town, so you won’t look out of place if you bring comfortable shoes. Also, keep in mind that if you’re doing touring around the city or historical sites, you’ll be walking on concrete and stone, which are hard on your feet. Both Tunisians and tourists often wear flip flops around town in the summer. If you are comfortable with doing a lot of walking in sandals, go for it. Outside of the summer months (mid-June through mid-September), you should prepare for rain and wet roads. It can rain for days on end, and even on mostly sunny days there are often rain showers. The drainage on the roads isn’t always good. Also, the sidewalks are in poor condition or non-existent, so you usually have to walk through puddles. It is kind of a drag to spend a whole day walking around town in wet, cold feet. So, if you’re going to do any walking outside the summer months, you may want to bring more than one pair of shoes. Also, pack more than one pair of socks per day. Women Footwear is a large part of women’s fashion in Tunisia. In a recent conversation with two Tunisian women, they both shared with me how they had dreams where they looked down to find that they were wearing their house shoes (called shlekas) out in public. To them, it was literally a nightmare to be caught outside in the wrong shoes! During the winter, women wear mostly nice boots or fashion sneakers. During the summer, you will mostly see women wearing dressy sandals, pumps, or heels. Desert Trips Taking an overnight trip into the desert is one of the coolest experiences you can have in Tunisia. Between the two of us, Abi and I have about 15 overnight desert trips under our belts. In order to have the best experience possible, you’ll want to dress and prepare for the unique environment. About to start breakfast after a windy / sandy night in the desert Sand. The sand in the Sahara is extremely fine, like dust. There is no way around it—if you go out into the desert, you will be 100% completely covered in a thin layer of sand. I mean, sand in your socks, sand in your phone, sand in your ears, sand in places where you didn’t think sand could go. Prepare ahead of time by having some plastic bags to store your sandy clothes until you can wash them. Heat. As you would expect, the Sahara Desert is hot, sunny, and dry during the daytime in the summer. Pack lightweight clothes that preferably cover your arms and legs. Bedouin guides wear thin, loose-fitting cotton clothes for good reason. Head and face. The best solution for guarding your head and face from the sun is to wear a thin, desert turban. If you’re going to the desert with a guide, they can help you wrap it around your head properly. Your guide might provide a turban for you, but you can also buy them from any souk (marketplace) for a couple dinars a piece. It’s better than sunscreen because sand will just stick to any sunscreen you put on. It also helps you look the part. Cold nights. The desert can get windy and pretty cold after the sun goes down. We did an overnight trip in April and the wind was very strong throughout the whole evening and night. The next near, I did another trip in April where it was hot in the daytime, but our whole group was shivering all night long, even with thick blankets. Footwear. Waking through the sand in the Sahara is like walking through thick, powdery snow. Your feet sink down into it and the sand comes up over the tops of your shoes. Walking in flip flops will put a lot of strain on the straps and could break them. You can wear sandals with straps, but keep in mind that your feet will be exposed to the sun and the sand can get very hot. Athletic shoes are good, but they will quickly fill up with sand. Whatever shoes you wear, you’ll have to empty the sand out periodically, so if you have to lace up your shoes every time it will become tedious. I prefer slip-on shoes. The Bedouin guides wear handmade slip-on shoes, which you can buy in the souks in the range of 50 Tunisian Dinars.